Prior to our Morocco trip, the airline shuffled our flights around several times, resulting in a 24 hour layover in Lisbon. Lucky us!
Our previous “experiences” of Lisbon having exclusively been the security cattle pen between connecting flights, we were thrilled (thrilled!) to have an opportunity to explore the city for a few hours. Here’s how we made the most of our layover day in the city.
Lisbon layover | leaving the airport
After collecting some cash*, the first step to maximizing our Lisbon layover was, of course, to leave the airport and head into the city centre.
There are three primary transportation options: taxi, bus and metro (subway).
The metro is by far the most cost-effective option: just €2 for a one-way ticket. The metro network connects directly to the airport, with the station located at the right side of the Arrivals hall in Terminal 1. Folks arriving at Terminal 2 will need to use the free airport shuttle bus to get there.
Where the metro scores highly on economy, it lacks in convenience. The trip to the city centre takes ~35 minutes, but travelers need to switch lines along the route, starting on the red line, then transferring to green at Alameda, or to blue at São Sebastião, in order to reach the end destination at Baixa-Chiado.
*tip: withdraw euros from an airport ATM before departing. we opted for €200, knowing we could take any leftover with us to Morocco. when withdrawing cash, you will be asked to select a billing option: in your card’s home currency, or in the local currency. “guaranteed” or “fixed” exchange rates are almost always higher than “unknown” rates, so always choose to be billed in local currency. this also helps reduce service fees, saving you even more money.
Option #2 is the bus. Though slightly more expensive than the metro (4€ per person, per trip), it offers a more direct 45-minute route to the city centre. Tickets can be purchased online, at ticket counters in the airport, or directly from the driver.
The bus terminal is also located outside the Arrivals hall in Terminal 1. Via Aerobus Line 1, airport to city centre is roughly 45 minutes. Regular city-bus line 783 (less expensive at €1.45 one-way) also runs to the city centre, but takes slightly longer.
Note 1: Regular city-bus line 783 allows a maximum baggage size of 50x40x20cm, If your luggage exceeds this size, metro or taxi are better options.
Note 2: For both the metro and the city-bus network, travelers must purchase the ‘7 Colinas’ / ‘Viva Viagem’ electronic travel card. It’s a one-time expense of €0.50 on top of the fare.
7 Colinas / Viva Viagem electronic card: €0.50
Single Fare Price: €1.45
24H Network Pass: €6.30
Taxi is the most convenient option. There’s no flat fee for travel to the city centre; cost is calculated by meter. The fare for the 20-minute journey runs generally in the neighbourhood of €20.
Regarding tipping, most locals will round up the fare to the nearest €1. If the driver has assisted with luggage, up to 10% of the fare is customary.
You will find taxis congregating outside the Arrivals terminal, and very easy to hail.
Lisbon layover | what to do with luggage
Layover storage is another consideration. Most hotels and airbnbs offer luggage storage for travelers who arrive before check-in. This is the option we took advantage of.
If your luggage is cumbersome and/or you just want to avoid the hassle of dragging it around, the airport offers rental storage lockers on the Departures floor of Terminal 1. Locker sizes vary; cost varies accordingly. For more information, visit the Humberto Delgado Airport website.
Lisbon layover | first stop, breakfast
We landed in Lisbon at 5:40 AM, so by the time we arrived downtown + dropped our bags, we were absolutely starving.
Our hotel was conveniently located in the Bairro Alto neighbourhood, steps from a plethora of amazing bakeries and restaurants.
We were drawn by the heavenly smell of sweet baking into Doce Real, a tiny, three-table breakfast cafe. I can’t stress enough how crazy delicious the empanadas were; award-winning, I later learned while perusing reviews framed on the wall. They’re a must-try, IMO.
Doce Real is the perfect spot to have a coffee and watch the city wake up. When visiting, note they are a cash-only shop.
Lisbon layover | while away the morning
Take an espresso to-go and wander across the street to the Jardim do Príncipe Real, a lovely tree-filled historic garden. Peruse the wares of vendors setting up along the northeast border of the park. Perfect for people-watching, we perched at a bistro table in the sunshine and passed an hour watching locals walk their dogs, exercise with personal trainers, practice Tai Chi + park yoga, and sip coffee in the sunshine watching us in return.
At 10:00 AM, dash across the Praça do Príncipe Real and head northwest a few blocks to the National Museum of Natural History and Science. If the weather is poor, spend a few hours wandering the exhibits. If the weather is fair, pop next door to the Botanical Gardens of Lisbon and take in the nearly 10 acres of rare and tropical trees, plants and seeds. It’s good for the soul.
Lisbon layover | time for lunch
Did you know that Lisbon is home to 41 Michelin-starred restaurants? FORTY-ONE! Coming from a city that only just earned it’s first stars two months ago, I was delighted to learn there were so many fabulous options to choose from in Lisbon.
Just steps away from the Botanical Gardens is Tapisco, a gorgeous bistro-style restaurant specializing in tapas and petiscos (sharing plates), and vermouth. Enjoy a leisurely Michelin-starred lunch of fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. And don’t be shy about taste testing the vermouth bar, the first in the city! Every meal is made more delicious with cocktails.
Reservations are strongly recommended.
If Michelin meals aren’t your speed, hop on a classic Remodelado tram and tour the city until you see a restaurant that piques your interest. The E24 line can be caught at the southeast corner of the Jardim do Príncipe Real. Ride it to Praça Luís de Camões square, where it meets the famous E28 line. Be prepared to wait for room to board the E28 tram, and/or expect standing-room only; the E28 offers the best tour of city highlights and is incredibly popular with tourists. Patience here is key.
A lovely place to stop for a casual lunch is the Praça do Comércio, a vast public square in the heart of the city on the bank of the Tagus river. Though definitely more “tourist-y” (and priced accordingly), it’s worth it for the people-watching and river view while you dine.
Lisbon layover | an afternoon of exploring
After lunch, catch the E28 tram to its termination point at the gates of the Cemiterio dos Prazeres. Here, spend a few hours strolling through the mausoleums. Prazeres is one of the largest cemeteries in the city. Founded in 1833 after an outbreak of cholera, it’s the final resting place of many famous personalities.
Back on the tram, continue the city tour, hopping off at the many attractions it passes to explore them further. The Thieves Market, São Jorge Castle, National Pantheon, and Basilica da Estrela are just a few of the landmarks and attractions accessible by the E28 line.
Following a long afternoon of wandering, it was time to head back to the hotel to formally check in and freshen up before dinner. We may or may not have napped.
(we definitely napped)
And then it was time for our much-anticipated evening event.
Lisbon layover | evening food tour
During our month in Spain, we’d enjoyed three food tours with Devour Tours in Barcelona, Sevilla, and Madrid. All three were unique and excellent, so we were super excited to sign up for one in Lisbon.
The quality of Devour Tours stems mainly, IMO, from the quality of the guides. Each guide brought a wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm about local cuisine and customs, but also their own particular passions and interests that hugely enhanced the tours overall. It’s evident the guides love their jobs, and that love translates to the tour itself.
The three hour ‘Bairro Alto Evening Food & Wine Tour’ started at the Jardim do Príncipe Real, where we met our guide Raquel and fellow tourists. The focus of the tour was the history and culture of Portuguese cuisine. Restaurants selected were family-owned establishments of historic importance to the neighbourhood, all of whom offered delicious petiscos, cocktails and hospitality.
The Bairro Alto neighbourhood is characterized by its hilly streets, so you work off whatever you’re eating in the hike to the next restaurant. A good thing, too, since the tour culminates at Manteigaria, a former butter shop turned Pastéis de Nata (custard tart) emporium overlooking Camões Square.
Manteigaria’s tarts are truly MAGNIFICENT. Flaky, buttery, crispy dough cupping silky custard with a slight char on top. They melted in our mouths and have made us forever fans of Pastéis de Nata. On any layover in Lisbon, Manteigaria is a must-try. You won’t regret it.
Lisbon layover | departures
Return transportation to the airport will depend on what time you need to be there. During the day, taxis are plentiful and can be easily hailed on the street. Metro and city-bus are also viable options.
We needed to return for 5am, so on the recommendation of our hotel manager we ordered an Uber. I recommend using the app for any departures between 11:00 PM and 8:00 AM. Our driver arrived on time in a perfectly clean vehicle, helped us with our luggage, chatted amiably during the 20 minute drive, and provided helpful direction at the airport. It was the perfect conclusion to our 24 hours in Lisbon.